Address: 11900 San Pablo Ave, El Cerrito, CA 94530
Hours: 7am – 8:30pm, 7 days a week
Parking: off-street lot
Visited: April 16, 2010, 3:30pm
It’s hard not to respect an establishment that has staying power directly below a fully operational BART line. This is the case of “The Red Onion”, our first stop on the odyssey that is Eating San Pablo (Ave). While Yelp can lead one wildly astray with outrageous proclamations of shady locales, it’s difficult to argue with an establishment that’s earned four and half stars in 88 reviews.
A small, no frills burger shop(pe) with only 25 seats, including stools at the counter, The Red Onion makes its eats to order, with the exception of some mini pies resting on the counter. Despite a small occupancy, the eatery has a parking lot large enough to tailgate; 16 spaces in all. The interior is decorated with vintage Coca-Cola wallpaper, checkered floor, assorted hamburger “art” and some fine Telemundo on television over the counter.
Greeted by a genuinely friendly staff, we both ordered what we assumed to be the specialty of the house, a cheeseburger with all the fixins (mayo, mustard, tomatoes, lettuce, red onion(!), secret “dressing” – no pickles! The nerve!) with a chocolate shake plus an order of fries to share. The meal did not disappoint. While the burger is somewhat larger than its smaller fast food cousin, the flavor (with the exception of mustard that’s included with “everything on it”) was almost indistinguishable from an In-N-Out burger (which is high praise), just with more meat, lettuce, tomatoes, and of course, more red onion. All the ingredients, including the soft buns tasted very fresh.
The fries were solid, not quite sensational — slightly crunchy on the outside, blisteringly hot inside. A single basket was more than enough for the two of us, although one of us (D) couldn’t stop cramming them down their chaw. The shakes, served in a nice 16oz floral patterned paper Dixie cup, weren’t in the “5 dollar shake” category, but were thick, chocolaty, and above average.
We can’t say the faded 1980’s glam shot of the burger on the wall of the “dining room” really aided the ambiance, but it was consistent with a place that continues to stand the test of time — with its simple menu, of straightforward fare, cooked to order. Well done, Red Onion, well done. We look forward to returning (now that we know we don’t have to drive all the way out to Pinole for In-N-Out, unless we insist on animal-style).
Final cost: $23.05 ($18.05 for two cheeseburgers, 2 chocolate shakes and an order of fries + a $5 tip)
You left a tip? Fancy!
Well done!
growing up in El Cerrito (from ’61-’75), I was fortunate enough to eat at the Red Onion frequently. Now that I live in Sacramento, I get the urge for the Red Onion. Once in a while, I’ll drive down to visit friends, just so that I can eat at the Red Onion. Thanks for the fond memories. Some of the places I miss include The Red Barn, Andy’s Oak Pit, Rod’s Hickory Pit, and the Doggie Diner. It’s nice to know the Red Onion still exists.